Adding insulation to the attic is generally a moderately difficult do-it-yourself (DIY) project, but the benefits can be substantial. If you are doing a major home renovation project, now may be a great time to tackle this project too.
The good news is that, even if you're not comfortable taking on this project yourself, there are many qualified contractors who can help you get the work done. Note that EPA recommends air sealing the attic before adding attic insulation.
Use the information below to determine if this project is a good fit for your home, what common problems it can help address, what the potential benefits are, what tools and materials you'll need to complete the project if you choose to do it yourself, important safety considerations, step-by-step instructions for getting the job done and when to seek professional help.
Many local utilities may offer rebates for a professional home energy assessment and certain air sealing and insulation projects.
Be sure to contact your utility company before beginning a project to see what incentives are available in your area. You can also check for incentives using the DSIRE database for state incentives.
If your home experiences any of these problems, it might be a good candidate for an attic insulation project:
You might also consider hiring a home energy professional to perform a comprehensive energy audit to pinpoint specific solutions for your home and identify potential safety hazards.
The attic is usually where you can find some of the largest opportunities to save energy in your home. By adding insulation in your attic, you can maintain the desired temperature throughout your home much better. Combined with attic air sealing, it can also help to alleviate the formation of dangerous ice dams in the winter.
If your attic is accessible and not too difficult to move around in, and you enjoy tackling bigger home improvement projects, attic insulating may be a good DIY project. Otherwise, consider finding a contractor to complete the project for you.
|Doing the Project Yourself||Hiring a Contractor|
|Ease of Project||Time (days)||Costs||Time (days)||Costs|
|Moderate − Difficult||1−3||$$$$$||1−2||$$$$$|
You may be eligible for financial assistance to make improvements like air sealing and insulating through your state's Weatherization Assistance Program (WAP).
For more information, visit the following site and select your state of residence: Weatherization Assistance Agency Locator .
Key: $ = <$100, $$$$$ = >$2,000
EPA's ENERGY STAR program provides great DIY resources to help you get the job done. However, if you find any of these conditions in your attic, it is recommended that you consult or hire a professional to correct these problems before proceeding:
Some attics have vermiculite insulation, which may contain asbestos. Vermiculite is a lightweight, pea-size, flaky gray mineral. Do not disturb vermiculite insulation unless you have had it tested by an approved lab to be sure that it does not contain asbestos. Contact your local health department for the name of an approved lab.
When adding additional insulation, you do not have to use the same type of insulation that currently exists in your attic. You can add loose fill on top of fiberglass batts or blankets, and vice versa. If you use fiberglass over loose fill, make sure the fiberglass batt has no paper or foil backing; it needs to be "unfaced." If you choose to add loose fill, it may be wise to hire a professional, as the application requires the use of a blowing machine, although some home improvement stores offer rentals of this machine.
Laying fiberglass rolls is easiest for a DIY job. If you have any type of insulation between the rafters, install the second layer over and perpendicular to the first (again, the second layer of roll insulation should be unfaced, with no vapor retarder). This will help cover the tops of the joists and reduce heat loss or gain through the frame. Also, when laying down additional insulation, work from the perimeter toward the attic opening. Never lay insulation over recessed light fixtures or soffit vents. Keep all insulation at least 3 inches away from recessed "can" lights, unless they are rated IC (Insulated Ceiling). If you are using loose fill insulation, use sheet metal or wire mesh to create barriers around the openings for such lights. If using fiberglass, wire mesh can be used to create a barrier.
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